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'Feasts of Good Fortune' is a delight for the senses and curious minds

caption: The KUOW Book Club is cooking with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle in February 2025.
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The KUOW Book Club is cooking with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle in February 2025.
Design by Katie Campbell

This is the KUOW Book Club, and we're cooking along with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle. I'm your club guide, Katie Campbell. Let's dig in.

I

recently talked to a KUOW colleague about why I'd selected a cookbook this month. It seemed like an odd choice to some in the newsroom. And I get it.

If your idea of a cookbook is a tome of recipes with lists of ingredients you may never use again and instructions that skim over culinary techniques better suited for fine-dining establishments than your kitchen, I can understand the confusion. A cookbook can seem like a — forgive the pun — bland option when we've enjoyed so many powerful conversations around great Pacific Northwest literature in previous months.

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Here's the thing: "Feasts of Good Fortune," and other cookbooks of its caliber, is so much more than a collection of recipes. It's culture. It's storytelling. It's personal.

Consider this passage that came with the recipe for scallion pancakes, the first recipe I made from the book:

Holiday or not, scallion pancakes are a family favorite, so we always make them for any gathering. Scallions, green onions, or spring onions are different names for the same ingredient. In the context of Lunar New Year, spring onions symbolize the coming of the spring season. Some families hang a stalk of spring onion over their door for good luck. FEASTS OF GOOD FORTUNE, PAGE 63

This short paragraph is so informative. It welcomes readers who do not share the authors' Chinese American heritage to better understand the food we're eating and the traditions that we're partaking in.

I couldn't not make the scallion pancakes, as they're one of my favorites, too. I love a crispy pancake all on its own or served up with any number of dishes or sides. And my first go at this recipe reminded me just how versatile they can be.

RELATED: KUOW Book Club's February pick: A celebratory cookbook from Seattleites Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle

See, I didn't have fresh scallions the night I decided to dive into "Feasts of Good Fortune," and snow flurries had already begun outside. I did have scallion kimchi, though, so I deviated slightly from the recipe and rolled the kimchi into my dough. I'll be honest: They were far from perfect the first night. My dough was dough-y. And while the kimchi gave the pancakes a nice kick, the result was still lacking something.

The next morning, I had an idea. I popped the remaining pancakes into the oven and fried some eggs in chili oil. I served the eggs with a little dill in a big bowl, somewhat family style, divvied up the now crispy pancakes, and tucked in with my boyfriend. That was a winner.

caption: KUOW Book Club guide Katie Campbell serves scallion pancakes alongside a plate of eggs fried in chili oil. The KUOW Book Club is reading and cooking with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle this month.
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KUOW Book Club guide Katie Campbell serves scallion pancakes alongside a plate of eggs fried in chili oil. The KUOW Book Club is reading and cooking with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle this month.
KUOW Photo/Katie Campbell

It was a cozy meal, not only because of the rich eggs and warm pancakes but also because of the way we shared it: seated next to each other on the floor, taking turns dipping into the perfectly runny yolks, watching the snow fall (okay, and maybe also binging "The Expanse").

We were home, physically and emotionally at peace.

Fitting that this was just a few days after the start of the Lunar New Year, the section of "Feasts of Good Fortune" in which you can find the scallion pancakes recipe. Hsiao-Ching Chou — the mom of the book's "Mom Says" notes — introduces this section with a reflection on the grand holiday:

The story of Chinese holidays in our family will always begin with Lunar New Year. Also known as Spring Festival, it holds all the superlatives: the biggest feast, the most family-filled, the loudest, the most festive, and the most delicious. When we reminisce about past dinners, the memories mingle across the years, different homes and dining tables, expanding and contracting as our families have grown or moved. And when the season outside is still dark and cold, this perennial promise of spring gives us an excuse to feast and be together. And to return home to one another. Lunar New Year is about that homecoming. Where is home? How we've answered that question through the decades and seasons of our lives has changed according to the moment. FEASTS OF GOOD FORTUNE, PAGE 45

The success of this book, to me, is how it encourages the reader and cook to consider their concept of home, too. It's full of warmth, from the stories shared to the colorful photography and emphasis on shareable dishes. Together, this mother-daughter duo created what feels like a family cookbook, the kind generations pass on to each other, kept in the family rather than released to the wider world.

I'm so grateful they've shared it. Had they not, I may never have made a homemade chicken broth, let alone a Chinese-style broth bursting with ginger, scallions, and shiitake mushrooms. That's what's called for in the recipe for long-life noodles in broth on page 176 (the recipe for the broth itself is on page 226).

I've made a lot of soups and stews over the years, yet for some reason, I never tried to make broth from scratch. Now, I can't imagine going back. The resulting noodle dish was rich and soothing, and my apartment was full of the broth's warm aroma while it cooked.

caption: KUOW Book Club guide Katie Campbell serves a bowl of long-life noodles in a Chinese-style chicken broth. The KUOW Book Club is reading and cooking with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle this month.
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KUOW Book Club guide Katie Campbell serves a bowl of long-life noodles in a Chinese-style chicken broth. The KUOW Book Club is reading and cooking with "Feasts of Good Fortune" by Hsiao-Ching Chou and Meilee Chou Riddle this month.
KUOW Photo/Katie Campbell

I served my noodles with baby bok choy, fresh cilantro, chopped scallions, chili crisp, shiitake mushrooms, and chicken (the bones of which I used to make the broth). Move over American-style chicken noodle soup — there's a new cold remedy in town!

That may be unfair to say, especially since this recipe is found in the section "celebrating our mixed culture." In the introduction, Meilee Chou Riddle reflects on her name. She explains the Mandarin character for mei translates to "rose," and the character translates to "strength" or "force." (Her mom spelled her name with lee to "make it easier for people to attempt to say.")

And she talks openly about the prejudice and stereotypes she has encountered from non-Chinese peers, as well as the power of her name and heritage:

Like the thorns protecting a rose, I used my strength not to build walls but to break down barriers and challenge preconceptions. Lee gave me the fortitude to speak out against injustice and to empower others who faced similar struggles. It became a source of empowerment, propelling me to pursue my passions and advocate for positive change. Meilee is not just my name. It reflects my journey to becoming the person I am today and is a celebration of the beauty and strength within me. FEASTS OF GOOD FORTUNE, PAGE 173

If that doesn't explain why I've selected this book for the KUOW Book Club this month, I don't know what else I could say to prove this was the right choice. Reading expands our horizons. It challenges our preconceptions. It connects us. And that's exactly what "Feasts of Good Fortune" accomplishes in words, textures, and good food.

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Spoiler alert: I'm happy to announce we'll be reading Putsata Reang's stunning memoir, "Ma and Me," in March. Reang's family fled war-torn Cambodia when she was just an infant. She explores her inherited trauma and the expectations foisted upon her in the years that followed.

Reang's memoir won the Pacific Northwest Book Award for Nonfiction in 2023. It was also a finalist for a Dayton Literary Peace Prize and the Lambda Literary Prize. In short, you know it's going to be good.

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